A wedding dress is more than just a garment—it’s a symbol of love, tradition, and personal expression. For many, it represents one of the most emotionally significant pieces of clothing they will ever wear. Across cultures and centuries, the wedding dress has evolved in style, meaning, and material, yet it continues to hold a timeless allure. Whether a classic white gown, a vibrant red sari, or a modest embroidered kaftan, wedding attire reflects not only individual dreams but also deep-rooted cultural stories.
The tradition of wearing a special dress for marriage dates back thousands of years. However, the white wedding dress as we know it today gained popularity when Queen Victoria of England married Prince Albert in 1840 wearing an ivory satin gown. At the time, white symbolized wealth and purity, as it was difficult to clean and maintain.
Before this, brides typically wore their best dress, regardless of color. In many Eastern cultures, brides traditionally wore red—a color symbolizing joy, fertility, and good fortune, especially in places like China, India, and the Middle East.
Bridal fashion varies widely across the globe, each style rich with cultural heritage:
This diversity reflects not only religious and cultural values but also regional artistry and craftsmanship, passed down through generations.
Contemporary wedding dresses come in countless styles, influenced by trends, personal taste, and even pop culture. Some of the most popular modern bridal trends include:
Personalization has become central—modern brides want dresses that reflect their unique personalities and stories, whether that means a custom train, a sentimental fabric, or a fusion of styles.
The wedding dress holds deep emotional value for many brides. It marks a significant life transition and is often the centerpiece of the wedding experience. For some, it’s a moment to feel empowered and beautiful; for others, it’s a tribute to family traditions or a chance to wear a gown passed down through generations.
In many cultures, the process of selecting or designing the dress is an intimate, joyful journey—shared with mothers, grandmothers, sisters, and friends. It’s not just about fashion, but about connection, memory, and celebration.
As the fashion industry becomes more conscious of its environmental impact, so too does bridal fashion. Brides are now considering:
This shift towards sustainable bridal wear reflects a growing desire to celebrate love in a way that honors the planet.
The wedding dress, whether ornate or simple, traditional or modern, holds a universal and timeless magic. It is a garment infused with hope, history, and heart. While styles will continue to evolve, the essence of the wedding dress remains unchanged: a beautiful expression of love, identity, and the beginning of a lifelong journey.
Dr Maysson Al Otaiba is an ambitious Emirati entrepreneur who is deeply committed to shaping the future for women and the broader community. She is the founder and creative director of her eponymous label Maysson, a beauty and fragrance brand. She grew up between the UAE, Morocco and London, bringing a rich, multicultural background to her brand. A graduate of the London College of Fashion, she obtained her PhD in business management and marketing, and focuses on developing innovative solutions to address contemporary challenges facing businesses and women. Dr Al Otaiba is dedicated to making a positive social and economic impact and her ambitions extend beyond local boundaries, seeking to build platforms that help develop young talent and foster entrepreneurship in the region
Fashion is more than mere clothing—it’s a mirror of society, culture, and identity. In recent years, a compelling shift has occurred: vintage fashion has not only resurfaced but has eclipsed many aspects of present-day fashion in popularity and cultural significance. From high-end fashion runways to Gen Z’s wardrobes, vintage styles from previous decades are being revived, reimagined, and celebrated. This essay explores the multifaceted reasons behind this phenomenon, examining vintage fashion’s rise through cultural nostalgia, sustainability, artistic value, and a growing desire for individuality in an age of mass production.
One of the most powerful forces fueling the resurgence of vintage fashion is cultural nostalgia. As society rapidly evolves—often feeling increasingly digital, chaotic, and disconnected—many individuals are drawn to the aesthetics and values of the past. This yearning for bygone eras manifests in the revival of 1970s bohemian chic, 1980s power dressing, and 1990s streetwear.
Popular culture plays a crucial role in this dynamic. Streaming platforms have reintroduced older shows like Friends, Sex and the City, and The Fresh Prince of Bel-Air to new generations, making the fashion of those eras feel not just relevant but aspirational. Additionally, celebrities such as Zendaya, Bella Hadid, and Harry Styles frequently wear vintage or vintage-inspired outfits, further validating and glamorizing retro aesthetics. Vintage clothing allows wearers to participate in a cultural memory—one that often feels more expressive, rebellious, or elegant than current fashion norms.
In the wake of the climate crisis, the fashion industry has come under intense scrutiny for its environmental impact. According to the United Nations, fashion is responsible for 10% of global carbon emissions and is the second-largest consumer of the world’s water supply. Fast fashion—cheap, trendy clothes produced quickly to meet consumer demand—has exacerbated this issue, encouraging overconsumption and contributing to the growing problem of textile waste.
Vintage fashion presents a compelling alternative. By reusing garments that already exist, consumers reduce their ecological footprint while still engaging in personal style. Wearing vintage is, in essence, a form of slow fashion—an approach that values quality, longevity, and minimal waste. Thrifting, upcycling, and vintage reselling on platforms like Depop, Poshmark, and Vestiaire Collective have turned sustainability into a trend, particularly among environmentally conscious Gen Z and millennial shoppers. In this sense, vintage is not only fashionable but responsible.
Unlike much of today’s fast fashion, which often sacrifices quality for speed and cost, vintage clothing is often a testament to exceptional craftsmanship. Many garments from the 1950s to the 1990s were constructed with superior fabrics, precise tailoring, and durable finishes. These items were made to last, and their survival into the present day is proof of their enduring value.
Consumers today are increasingly disillusioned with the disposable nature of modern fashion. Vintage clothing offers a refreshing contrast—unique pieces with character, history, and an artisanal touch. Whether it’s a hand-embroidered blouse from the 1970s or a finely tailored blazer from the 1980s, these items often showcase design details and techniques that are rare or cost-prohibitive in mass-produced fashion today.
This authenticity also appeals to the fashion-forward consumer who craves individuality. In a world saturated with identical, algorithm-driven trends, vintage clothing provides the opportunity to build a personal style narrative. It allows the wearer to stand out, to own something no one else has, and to creatively mix the old with the new in a way that feels both stylish and meaningful.
The economic appeal of vintage fashion cannot be overlooked. In many cases, high-quality vintage items can be found at a fraction of the cost of contemporary designer goods. Thrift stores, flea markets, and online vintage boutiques provide access to luxury fashion without the hefty price tag. Additionally, vintage pieces often hold or increase in value over time, making them more of an investment than fast fashion.
Psychologically, vintage fashion satisfies deeper needs than aesthetics alone. It connects people to a sense of identity, purpose, and belonging. Wearing vintage can feel like reclaiming history, honoring the past, and making a statement against conformity. It’s fashion with depth, fashion with a soul—something many consumers find increasingly lacking in today’s commercialized landscape.
Social media has played a critical role in accelerating the popularity of vintage fashion. Platforms like Instagram, TikTok, and Pinterest are visual spaces that celebrate creativity and expression—ideally suited for showcasing unique, eye-catching outfits. Influencers who specialize in vintage fashion have built massive followings by curating distinctive looks that combine nostalgia, storytelling, and style.
Moreover, online communities have formed around specific subcultures—Y2K fashion, cottagecore, grunge revival, and 90s minimalism—each embracing different eras of vintage. These digital movements encourage experimentation and foster a sense of community among like-minded fashion lovers. Vintage fashion, once associated with niche or alternative scenes, has now become part of the mainstream fashion dialogue thanks to these platforms.
Vintage fashion’s rise over present-day fashion is not a fleeting trend but a reflection of larger societal changes. It represents a deep yearning for quality, sustainability, individuality, and cultural connection in a time when modern fashion often feels impersonal and wasteful. In turning to the past, today’s fashion lovers are not regressing—they’re reimagining. They are crafting a future that honors heritage, embraces authenticity, and champions creativity over conformity. In this way, vintage has not only become hotter than present-day fashion—it has become a symbol of conscious, intentional living in an age of excess.
Jordanian fashion designer Nancy Najib Ammar has launched an inspiring initiative titled “Color Your Life”, aimed at supporting women of all ages by teaching them sewing skills to help improve their financial independence. The project also seeks to highlight women’s contributions to society and the artistry of their handcrafted local products, which deserve recognition and promotion.
According to Nancy, the idea for the initiative was born from a sense of social responsibility and a desire to find accessible ways to support women and enhance their participation in various areas of life.
In an interview with Al-Araby Al-Jadeed, Nancy explained that her primary goal is to empower women by providing them with training in sewing and fabric painting techniques, helping them earn a sustainable income—particularly crucial given the limited job opportunities that worsened during the COVID-19 pandemic.
Nancy launched “Color Your Life” in 2018, choosing a name that symbolizes hope and optimism for a brighter future. Despite the challenges brought on by the pandemic, the project has continued to grow and make an impact. She encourages aspiring entrepreneurs and community leaders to bring their ideas to life, develop them, and remain motivated to serve their communities with ambition and purpose.
One of the beneficiaries of the initiative, Rola Fudailat, shared her personal transformation since joining the program. “Color Your Life changed me significantly,” she said. “I became more active and productive in society. I overcame my fear and began creating, and now I even receive online orders for my work. That’s been a great source of motivation for me.”
Through unbridled drive and with altruistic purpose, Dr Reem Tariq El Mutwalli, founder of The Zay Initiative, has amassed a treasure trove of regional thobes that weave an empowered tale of Arab women and a country’s cultural narrative, from past to future
“The Emirati thobe can serve as the first point of contact between people. More than a dress, it is a powerful ambassador and a porthole to understanding the soul of a people and their land.”
From her home in Dubai, Dr Reem Tariq El Mutwalli is in the thick of planning her daughter’s wedding. The weight of the cultural significance of the event is not lost on her lithe shoulders. Another woman might be less weary but Dr El Mutwalli, who bellies an unquenched thirst for storytelling, didn’t hesitate to dive headfirst into its multifaceted significance. “I’m almost shocked by how much symbolism is involved in our daily lives that we don’t even consider. It’s second nature to us, and it’s part of our culture, but we don’t understand it and we don’t even know it,” she says.
The culture and history behind objects and events have been somewhat of an obsession for Dr El Mutwalli since her earliest days, when she moved as a child from Baghdad to the United Arab Emirates. Her father was appointed an economic advisor to the Crown Prince, then the late Sheikh Khalifa bin Zayed, by Sheikh Zayed Al Nahyan, the founding father of the UAE. “I grew up with the Al Nahyan family. My father was at the palace on a daily basis – we would go with him, and all us children would play together. Life was much simpler then,” she recalls. Being raised in a new country, she was especially cognisant of her surroundings and cultural mores, and soon realised that clothing, particularly the Emirati thobe, could serve as the first point of contact between people. More than a dress, it was a powerful ambassador and a porthole to understanding the soul of a people and their land. During her decades-long career working at the Cultural Foundation in Abu Dhabi giving lectures, meeting dignitaries and overseeing openings, she took great care in the message her choice of dress offered the public. “I felt that as a representative of Emirati culture at this institution, I needed to dress for and represent the role. I conscientiously looked for these traditional dresses and made sure to wear them when I was in public,” recalls Dr El Mutwalli. She purchased some, and commissioned others, and then through word of mouth, she created her own clothing line.
“I was always fascinated by these outfits. I loved them and enjoyed wearing them,” she explains. “People knew how captivated I was by the clothes, and if there was a special dress, they would send it to me, and it became part of my own wardrobe. People generally don’t collect clothes, they give them away. By chance, I kept mine as they became a part of my daily wear.” Little by little, her collection grew, and today, it consists of over 800 traditional Emirati thobes. “I never thought of it as a collection at all,” insists Dr El Mutwalli. “Eventually, I realised that I was sitting on a cultural gem. I decided to do my PhD thesis on women and their dress. I understood that I had special access, even though I had never been conscious of the privilege that I had. I recognised that there was something there that needed to be studied and archived, and that what was personal and private needed to become public to be studied and understood.”
On a quest for information, Dr El Mutwalli returned to her childhood circle. “You have to remember, back then most women were very private,” she points out. “They would not speak to an outsider. But because I grew up among them, they were not shy to speak with me and they invited me into their lives again as a researcher.” To fortify her learnings, she spoke to the younger generations at universities and schools. She authored her book, printed in English and Arabic titled Sultani, Traditions Renewed; Changes in Women’s Traditional Dress in the UAE during the reign of Shaykh Zayid bin Sultan Al Nahyan, 1966-2004. To this day, it remains the world’s most comprehensive reference on the evolution of dress in the UAE. Through her studies, Dr El Mutwalli learned that across the region, most people were not educated about the culture and attire of their country. She established a non-profit, The Zay Initiative, in 2018 to preserve Arab culture through dress, and became active in collecting thobes from other countries of the Arab world. The Zay Initiative features the first regional digital archive and dictionary underscoring the region’s dress culture, with pieces from Yemen, Morocco, Saudi Arabia, Tunisia, Egypt, Bahrain, Kuwait and more. Around 800 articles from its ever expanding collection of more than 2000 pieces are published online, and this content can be viewed globally by all, for free. The platform also offers touring exhibitions and museum loans to raise awareness about the evolution of regional culture. Meanwhile, all the pieces are secured in a storage facility donated in support of The Zay Initiative.
Today, such traditional attire is still worn by Emirati women during religious festive seasons, special events like weddings or to celebrate educational or career milestones. The overgarment worn by Dr El Mutwalli is a piece she designed from a larger collection of 100 thobes, and carries a verse from the Founding Father Sheikh Zayed’s poetry. A gold dress in her collection was commissioned by Sheikha Hamda bint Mohammed Al Nahyan as a gift to Dr El Mutwalli to commemorate the completion of her PhD. The late Fatima bint Saad, a palace dressmaker, created the overgarment and tunic dress based on the Sheikha’s own wedding dress, along with a gold-studded burqa. Such dresses were created with noble fabrics – this thobe features French silk chiffon with purple, turquoise and gold brocade. It is encrusted with three types of hand-stitched 18-carat gold platelets, some which resemble old embossed coins and stars. The style of dress, worn by the elite, is an example of the Arabic saying, zinah wa khazinah “beauty and wealth in one.”
Amassing the thousands of pieces proved challenging. “The first obstacle is that in our culture, we are not raised with the notion of collecting. We tend to give away whatever we have,” explains Dr El Mutwalli. “If a dress is purchased for Eid, the following year maybe it will be gifted to a relative, and this handing down will continue until it is given away to somebody who is in need. That’s the culture. Therefore, people do not understand the historic value of preserving their clothes.” She underscores another challenge: people consider their clothes as part of their being, and their essence. “Often some worry about giving them to others intentionally because they are superstitious about the evil eye,” she says. “When somebody comes and says, ‘I want this’, some become very reserved to give away their dress because they fear a bad omen.”
Fortunately, Dr El Mutwalli’s altruistic intentions driving her collecting gained the trust from the women of her community, and The Zay Initiative gained traction globally. Today, its value is inestimable. For decades, European countries have wielded the power of clothing to serve as international cultural ambassadors. Fashion exhibitions tour the world for months at a time and books meticulously document their origins, purpose and social significance. They inform how women’s roles in society –in both public and the home– are valued, and evolve. Without doubt, the drive of one woman is already creating a ripple effect, redefining the ways in which the Arab woman’s story is told and expanding that legacy.
Role Models
Four Emirati women at the forefront of the nation’s cultural shift pay homage to their roots in rare pieces from The Zay Initiative’s archive.
Salma Abdulla is a young Emirati visionary and the creative force behind Wajd, the pinnacle brand redefining contemporary traditional wear for both children and adults. Over just four years, Abdulla has transformed Wajd into more than a brand, but rather a lifestyle that pays homage to her Emirati heritage while weaving inspiration from her global travels. Wajd is present in Dubai, Abu Dhabi, Doha, and now Riyadh. The founder’s background as a painter and certified florist from the renowned Catherine Muller School of Floristry in London have infused her work with unparalleled creativity and attention to detail. Each project Abdulla undertakes is a testament to her deep connection to her culture. This manifests through limited drops inspired by ongoing cultural events or elements. She draws inspiration from her Dubai and the magical experience she has witnessed her city go through.
Dr Maysson Al Otaiba is an ambitious Emirati entrepreneur who is deeply committed to shaping the future for women and the broader community. She is the founder and creative director of her eponymous label Maysson, a beauty and fragrance brand. She grew up between the UAE, Morocco and London, bringing a rich, multicultural background to her brand. A graduate of the London College of Fashion, she obtained her PhD in business management and marketing, and focuses on developing innovative solutions to address contemporary challenges facing businesses and women. Dr Al Otaiba is dedicated to making a positive social and economic impact and her ambitions extend beyond local boundaries, seeking to build platforms that help develop young talent and foster entrepreneurship in the region
Umy Khaseibah is an Emirati woman whose values are rooted in heritage and family. She was married at a very young age, as was the tradition for women of her generation, and her desire to educate extends beyond her children, to her wider community. She has given talks at schools to new generations of girls about what life was like in the UAE prior to the discovery of oil. A lover of verse, she writes her own poetry and is always dressed in traditional Emirati attire, along with gold and henna. Khaseibah became known to the public when photographer Alia Sultan Al Joker posted a picture of her sharing the good news of the UAE’s mission to Mars, led by engineer Omran Sharaf, on her Instagram account.
Linda Anggrea of the Modinity Group, Kerim Türe of Modanisa, and Rabia Zargarpur of Rabia Z joined Sally Moussa of Forbes Middle East at BoF CROSSROADS 2025 to discuss modest fashion’s global rise, cultural significance, and commercial future.
It’s a pivotal moment for modest fashion. Spending by Muslim consumers on fashion is projected to hit $428 billion by 2027, marking significant annual growth. Yet despite booming demand, modest fashion remains commercially fragmented and struggles for global recognition.
Emirati fashion designer Rabia Zargarpur founded her namesake brand after confronting the severe lack of modest clothing options in post-9/11 America. Driven by a personal need, she launched her brand from her grandfather’s garage in Silicon Valley, determined to bring modest fashion to mainstream runways.
“In 2000, you couldn’t even find modest basics — long sleeves, or something that would cover your hips,” Zargarpur says. “That was a huge aha moment for me. We are so neglected. Why isn’t there a single label catering to the needs of our women? And so I took charge and created my brand, Rabia Z.”
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